Bustiers
"Built to Embrace: The Art of the Bustier"
Bustiers are unapologetically feminine. They shape the body—nipping the waist, lifting the bust, inviting upright posture. It’s nearly impossible to slouch in a bustier. And that’s part of the point: they demand presence
The Portrait
Metallic silk organza and metallic chantilly lace bustier. 3-dimensional flower petals beaded in metal seed beads. Photo of model Katie Rees by Barry Druxman.
Remnants become art
Their origin in my collection goes back to the early ’90s, born from leftover scraps. I was designing one-of-a-kind jackets from vintage curtain fabrics for high-end indie boutiques when the remnants—small pieces of rare fabrics and antique trims—called out for a second life. The bustier was my answer.
Vintage 1940s tropical curtain fabric bustier, trimmed in organic cotton lace. Accessorized with a raffia belt. Photo of model Michelle Easter by Glenn Campbell.
Energetic embellishments
Leftover semiprecious and crystal beads and stones from my belt and jewelry days became energetic embellishments. I stitched some on to a bodice as an experiment and fell in love with designing hand-beaded, jeweled bustiers. My favorite beads were always semiprecious as they carry unique healing and balancing energies.
“What do I have, and how can I use it?” That question has quietly guided me throughout my career as an eco-fashion designer. Long before “zero waste” was a buzzword, I was practicing it—intuitively.
Hand painted, embroidered vintage silk kimono bustier, beaded in freshwater pearls and cherry quartz. Photo of model Joy Dai by Chika Okazumi.
Bustiers as signature pieces
Over time, bustiers evolved into signature pieces: constructed from vintage kimonos, saris, Chantilly lace, sustainable fabrics, and beaded trims. They graced runways, stages, and weddings.
Model in a ruched silk organza & velvet buster and skirt with chunky rhodonite beading. “Sirens of Spring” fashion show.
Eco Bridal Finale
The finale of my “Sirens of Spring” show in 2006 featured a wedding gown for the first time—a hemp/silk organza piece embroidered with freshwater pearls. It marked the birth of my eco-conscious bridal collection.
Fashion show finale wedding gown in hemp/silk organza and satin with freshwater pearl, rose quartz, and aventurine beading. Model Erin Saltman. “Sirens of Spring” fashion show.
From the runway to red carpet, magazine covers, and music videos
Models in bustier gowns. Model facing forward is wearing a chantilly lace and English net gown with aventurine, jade, and freshwater pearl beading. “Sirens of Spring” fashion show.
Rihanna, from the music video “Unfaithful” in the chantilly lace bustier from the runway with aventurine, jade, and freshwater pearl beading.
Model in the vintage sari bustier beaded in jade and yellow jade, with an ombre English net skirt. “Sirens of Spring” fashion show.
Pink-In the vintage sari bustier from the runway on the cover of Paw Luxuries with her dog Elvis.
Costume design
I designed burlesque costumes for The Pussycat Dolls when they were still a stage troupe—before the pop era. I loved the theatre of it all. One moment I was hand-stitching a custom corset for Gwen Stefani or Christina Aguilera; the next, crafting a hot pink sequin backdrop for The Roxy stage.
Custom corset and sailor collar bustier designed for Christina Aguilera, a featured celebrity performer with the Pussycat Dolls at The Roxy, Hollywood.
Pool Party
In part inspired by my costume work with The Pussycat Dolls, cropped bustiers, aka “bralettes” paired with retro high-waist bottoms became pinup girl-inspired pool party suits.
Vintage kimono retro pool party suit, organza flower fascinator. Model Kelli Kickham.
Custom designs
I still design custom wedding gowns—but only by request. The model in the finale wedding gown above is marrying in a castle in Spain. Her request? A pagan sea-witch mermaid gown, in seafoam tones, with a pearl-encrusted cape. I can’t show you the dress yet—it’s under wraps until September.
Sneak peek custom mermaid gown seafoam toned embroidered & beaded English net, with a shell and freshwater pearl brooch designed for center back detail, inspired by my jewelry days.
One of a kind archive
As I continue to evolve the collection, I’ve placed select one-of-a-kind bustiers and special occasion pieces from my archive on sale. You can explore them here: Bustiers and Gowns
Runway finale, Mercedes Benz/Smashbox.
I’m wearing a vintage silk kimono bustier and a reincarnated cashmere wrap from my final LA show—Asian punk-inspired, with appliquéd Chinese characters. The sleeves say “peace and love.”